Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
